The Creepy Soviet Prison in Tallinn

Tallinn is the last stop on our Baltic tour. We have previously visited Kaunas, a beautiful, quiet city in Lithuania with some fascinating history, sights and culture. Then Riga, where there is so much to discover from the medieval old town to the quirky Moscow District and the beautiful huskies in the Latvian woodland.

We hear about a Soviet prison in Tallinn

One thing that excites us about our next destination is the old Soviet prison in Tallinn. This is something we read about while in Riga. Even though we know it is off season and the exhibit could be closed for the winter, we still want to check it out.

Our first day in Tallinn is spent discovering the medieval OLD TOWN. Full of medieval walls, old coffee shops and beautiful churches, the city is incredible. We learn a lot about the country’s history on our free walking tour making us even more excited about our next destination.

We research the former prison

The next day, we plan to visit Patarei Sea Fortress. A building that used to be one of the most feared locations in the country – the former Soviet prison in Tallinn. The complex was completed as an army barracks in 1840 as part of the Russian Empire. In 1920 it was converted into a prison and was used as such until 2002, when Estonia joined the EU. 

The communist regime in Estonia from 1940-1941 and 1944-1991 imprisoned many people in the fortress, including suspected political opponents. The prison was also used as a forced labour camp by the Nazis from 1941-1944 when they occupied Estonia.

The sea fortress is Estonia’s largest classicist building complex and is spread out over 4 hectares. When used as a Barracks in the 1800s, over 2,000 soldiers were stationed here. As a prison, the capacity peaked at over 4,200 in the 1940s. The numbers increased so much at the start of the Nazi occupation that temporary concentration camps had to be set up in the grounds.

The prison has an execution room where criminals were sentenced to death by hanging. But no mass murders were committed here.

After the defeat of the Nazis, many of the prisoners were sent to Soviet Labour Camps. Some were Estonian resistance fighters and therefore considered a threat to Communism. Others were released by Nazi guards before the forces left Tallinn.

One political prisoner recalls his experience as the Nazis left Patarei-

“…we stood in the corridor of the Patarei single division and awaited our fate. That same probably slightly drunk man with a narrow face and wearing a cap stepped in front of us and ordered us to follow him. But he did so in any case in a sotto voice. “

“He took us through a couple of grated communicating gates, whereas the guards at the gates or communicating doors opened them at his signal without hesitation. I remember that I noted to Armin, who walked beside me: “Aha – we walked past there in any case –” and I had in mind the chamber where it was rumoured that death sentences were customarily carried out. Thereafter we reached some almost unlighted rooms adjoining some sort of so-called production management courtyard. Thus I stumbled on the feet of some people who were sitting down. Somebody muttered that they had just arrived here from Jõhvi.”

“Then we saw a bit of exceedingly beautiful starry autumn sky and exited the last gate, and suddenly we were on the other side of the prison walls. And naturally we looked around in utter suspense: where are the lorries? (The rumour had spread in the meantime that we were being taken to Paldiski and from there to Germany.) So where are the lorries then? And the inevitable outdoor gendarmes with their little shields hanging from their necks? And the dogs? – The first and the second and the third were nowhere in sight! Instead, our escort emerged from the darkness. It is as if he had ordered us with a gesture to gather around him. In any case, before we were able to scatter he said: “Well, boys, now – everybody goes wherever he wants! This crap is over for now!” And we ran for it.”

The Soviets return

The Soviets took charge of the prison once more and by 1945 the numbers had again swelled to well over 4,000 inmates. The suffering continued until the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991.

Present day Tallinn

Back to the present and we set off from our apartment in the crisp morning air. Our place is situated in a converted warehouse in the Kalamaja District. This part of Tallinn is an up-and-coming hipster area where there are plenty of coffee shops and quirky bars. There are also a lot of traditional Estonian wooden houses which are beautifully painted.

The prison is a 30 minute walk away so we decide to hire a couple of electric scooters that are nearby. We download the app (most are operated by Bolt), scan our chosen vehicle and scoot. With a max speed of 30mph these are fantastic fun but beware of the varied speed limits throughout the town – and slippery leaves in the autumn!

Our route takes us through Kalamaja Kalmistupark, a beautiful park currently filled with crisp, amber leaves.

Approaching the Soviet Prison in Tallinn

With the sea on our left we are whizzing along the cycle path. After a while, we spot a grey, brick wall lined with twisted, barbed wire. We must be on the right track. Continuing along the path by the wall we reach the entrance and park our scooters. As we walk by the abandoned, wooden guard tower there is no one else around and the only sound is from the sea.

The sign up ahead confirms that the exhibition in the cells had closed for the season just a few days earlier. “Communism is Prison” is the title of the exhibition that was launched in May 2019. It is only open from May – Sept and on Wednesday to Sunday.

We later learnt that the purpose of the exhibition is to educate visitors on the nature of communist ideology and the crimes committed across the Soviet Union. It also raises awareness by telling the stories of the victims of the Nazi and Communist regimes. The creators hope the exhibition will inform guests of the true mentality and nature of the communist government. There are thought to be around 90 million victims of communism across the globe.

Entering the prison grounds

The grounds of the prison are still accessible, so we head in. One side of the prison is overlooking the sea across to Finland. This view is of course blocked by bars and barbed wire. Many lengths of the wire have since been shaped into love hearts as a symbol of solidarity for those who suffered here. The area is deserted and the stillness is chilling. Even on a mild day, the air here is cold.

We are peering inside one of the barred windows. It is just possible to make out the inside of a cell through the broken glass. The paint is flaking from the walls in chunks, the concrete floor is grey and worn and there is a faint smell of cold, musty stone. Somewhere down the long corridor there are echoed voices… we move on.

Walking the grounds of the prison there is definitely a heavy feeling of suffering. The sea air glides through the barbed wire and hits the cold stone walls. We stroll for a bit and take a closer look at the guard tower at the front of the building. It’s easy to see why Estonians still associate this place with “grief, suffering, disgrace and death…”.

More Info on the Soviet prison in Tallinn

• For more information, visit Tallinn Tourist Info HERE
• The official Patarei Fortress website can be found HERE

Have you visited Tallinn? Are you planning a trip and need more information? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!