Hiking Beautiful Vitosha Mountain, Sofia

Hiking Vitosha Mountain

“Come on!” shouts my guide as we move into a jog. A downpour is imminent, the sky has become dark and the air cooler. “We’re nearly there!” Leaping over streams, crouching under branches and climbing over downed trees we finally arrive at a clearing in the middle of the amber trees. Boyana Waterfall crashes down the side of the cliff. We have taken on the challenge of hiking Vitosha Mountain.

Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital city

Sofia in the autumn is beautiful. The city is full of Roman ruins, Byzantine buildings, Russian Revival and brutalist, Communist designs to explore. There are plenty of green parks, such as South Park and City Garden, to spend warm afternoons relaxing or for some brisk morning exercise – there is plenty of hiking in Sofia!

Being a spa town, there is a constant supply of warm water flowing through the city (at around 37°C). This is thought to have several healing properties and can be accessed through the many taps placed around Sofia.

Mount Vitosha overlooks the city and is an imposing presence. Vitosha Boulevard is a bustling street with many places to eat and drink, as well as displaying a fine view of its namesake. Vitosha is a mountain massif and the tallest peak sits at 2290m high, the highest in the Sofia area. It is popular with locals for hiking in the summer as many bid to escape the sweltering heat of the city. Skiing around Vitosha is a common pursuit in the winter. Always keen to get out of the city, Vitosha Mountain is calling me.

Arriving at Vitosha Mountain

After taking time to explore Sofia I decide to spend a day in the mountains. Only just surviving a rather hair raising taxi ride out of the city I meet with my guide, Ana, at the foot of Vitosha Mountain. Ana tells me she grew up just outside the city and has climbed all the peaks of Vitosha. I am in good hands for my hike up Vitosha Mountain

There is a Nature Park around the Vitosha area so car parking is easy and accessible. You can also reach the park by public transport which mostly includes a bus then a chair lift. However, the details vary tremendously depending on what trail you choose and where you start in Sofia. Bus 64 takes you to the Boyana Church which is where we started. Alternatively, jump in a taxi and you will be there within around 15 minutes.

Ana and I set off up the track. A gentle incline on a well maintained path passing by the beautiful Boyana church, dating back to the 9th and 10th century. As we continue our hike up Vitosha Mountain the path becomes narrower, wetter and more challenging. Ana tells me there was a storm a few days ago and there might be a few trees down. “If there is a problem, we will have to re-route.”

On reaching a small clearing we stop to soak up some autumnal sun and refresh. Sitting in almost complete silence, the view of the city through the trees is already spectacular and we’re not even halfway up. The surrounding mountains are covered in bright orange trees, mainly beech and birch, glowing in the sun and the air is fresh and still and smells of crisp, autumn leaves.

Boyana Waterfall

Our next stop is Boyana Waterfall. After about an hour of walking, jumping, jogging and ducking we arrive and a rest is definitely required! The weather is now pretty dreich but that takes nothing away from the spectacular beauty of the waterfall. There is no sound except the soothing noise of the water, there is a damp smell mixed with autumn foliage and a light spray coming off the water. Ana and I start chatting and she tells me she is a freelance writer and the mountain provides peace and inspiration for her.

After a quick refueling we continued to the first of the Vitosha peaks, Kopitoto. We walk for about an hour before we reach the radio tower that can be seen from the city. The route is well used but a little difficult after the rain. We have the area to ourselves as the autumn warmth is fading and many walkers prefer to stick to the more leisurely hiking trails around Vitosha Mountain.

There is an old chair lift, built in the 1960s, that used to take people up and down the mountain. Unfortunately it has been out of use since 1992 but, together with the radio tower, it certainly adds a bit of communist character and an urban edge to the scenery. After taking in the view for a moment we begin our decent. Still on a high from reaching our destination, the rain goes almost unnoticed. Ana tells me there is one more place she would like to take me on our hike up Vitosha Mountain.

Descending Vitosha Mountain

The sun has finally come out and we walk at a more leisurely pace for another hour or so. Passing through the peaceful, golden woodland we spot some deer, which are apparently common in these parts. Also common, I’m told, are wild boar. They are not so shy, especially in the spring when they have young, and are moving closer and closer to the city.

The footpath now has almost no gradient, and we greet more fellow hikers, so we must be nearing the bottom of the mountain. Bulgarian hikers like to enthusiastically greet each other.  Try using “Dobar den” (Good day) or “Zdravejte” (Hello) when passing walkers.

Just around the corner, and the last stop on our hike, Lake Boyana emerges from the trees. Ana tells me this is man made but it is beautiful none the less.

Arriving back at the small car park at the foot of the mountain, I’m sorry that the day is over but still hyped about reaching one of the view points. The panorama from the top was breathtaking but my visit peaked elsewhere. The peace and tranquility by the side of the waterfall was such a refreshing break from a busy city and this will stick in my memory for a long time.

Mountain Folklore

As in many of the Balkan countries, Vitosha Mountain has some great legends. Our favourite is a tale of two love struck shepherds – Vita and Lyulin. Although they had never met, Vita used to sing from the top of the “Big ridge” while Lyulin would accompany her on his fiddle from the “Long ridge”.  Vita turned down every other suitor in the hope of marrying Lyulin. Her mother grew angry and cursed them both . Her spell was so powerful that Vita was turned into black stone that is now known as the “Black Peak” while Lyulin suffered a similar fate and became Lyulin Mountain.

Take a break from the city and try hiking Vitosha Mountain

If you visit Sofia, make sure you keep a day aside for hiking Vitosha Mountain. If you’re a keen hiker you will love every minute of it. It’s not necessary to go with a guide as most of the routes are well signed (our route was about 10km).

Decent, basic equipment (boots, waterproof, map, compass) will be necessary for the tougher routes – some of the peaks are very rocky. But regular clothes are fine for exploring the lower trails of Vitosha Mountain in fair weather. If hill walking is not your usual activity of choice then go to enjoy the fresh air, beautiful scenery and spend a day with nature.

More Info

• Sofia tourist info can be found HERE
• Bulgaria tourist info can be found HERE
• FREE HIKING TOUR takes a very similar route with groups of 2 – 20 people

Where to go next?

Why not take the bus from Sofia to Skopje, North Macedonia? The bus takes under 5 hours (as long as you go via Kriva Palanka) and shouldn’t cost more than €20 for a one way trip.

Final note: Things change often when travelling in the Balkans and there is not much information online. We would definitely advise checking with a local where possible. We found people to be really friendly and super helpful.

Have you visited Sofia or Bulgaria? Are you planning a trip and need more information? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!